THE GULF ISLANDS
This trip was the inspiration of our family’s Blog and so I begin here. My daughter and husband were in need of reprieve from the August Virginia heat and I in search of whales. I booked this trip with only weeks until we’d depart with a lot of missing details. The flexibility leant itself to a free flowing trip.
Zoë learned that there are still places in society that are trusting aind respectable toward not just each other, but to public and personal property. We found a place where offering a ride is kind and the ultimate in HOV and environmentally-minded transport. She understands that not all people are good and safe, but that most are and lost in the Gulf Islands is a place you can find that old fashioned sense of community amongst strangers.
We’ll plan to go back again, when my son turns five or six. Not because it’s not a good place for younger children or infants, but because there are life lessons I would like Oliver Kai to experience and remember. Zoë has fond memories even though only five years old and tells stories from our adventures. So although the whales remain elusive, the trip remains a success.
9 DAY ITINERARY
Flight into Seattle Saturday am – Take a morning flight that way you’ll have allow plenty of time to experience the flavors of Seattle. From the airport we took the subway downtown. Packing light made this easy. (See what to pack) We left our belongings safely at the Kenmore Air on Lake Union and checked in for our late afternoon flight. There are bathrooms there to regroup. Unzip your backpack for a day trip in Seattle.
Seattle in a Day– There are options depending on the weather. We happen to come the hottest day all year and so ours involved a romp in the fountains. Keep in mind, you can stop again when you return to Seattle for your flight home. The Fish Market on your way out would allow you to pick up holiday and birthday gifts for the rest of the year.
- Stop 1 – Biscuit Bitches (1 hour) We took the train, but you can Uber or Cab to Biscuit Bitches for a morning breakfast. We walked to the park overlooking the water and grabbed a picnic table. It’s not the cleanest and your children see people sleeping in the park, but I felt it showed the importance of following a path and no doubt inspired conversations. Later, it also lent for a great contrast of how clean the islands are kept and a conversation on what makes the difference.
- Stop 2 – Fish Market (1+ hours) It opens early and fun to watch the vendors setting up. From the park you can easily walk over and spend as much time or an hour to breeze through. Lots of cool crafts and art with fun conversations with locals. If you time it right, you’ll find them throwing fish orders and see what a Cod really looks like, eyes and all.
- Stop 3 – Ferris Wheel (45 min) Wander down the steep stairs toward the water to the gondola ferris wheel.
Along the way we found a spontaneous dance party. We got our wiggles dancing with locals and a DJ. We danced our way, jamming in line to house music, waiting for the ferris wheel. Worth the views and conversation as we hung above the city. It’s also a chance to sit down and relax. - Stop 4 – Ice Cream (30 min+) We wandered back through the market and found a delightful Gelato spot. There are plenty of coffee (including the first Starbucks) and sweet shops to pick up some tasty fuel and people watch a bit.
- Stop 5 – The Armory (1 hour+) By this time it was getting hot and we walked up to the the Armory, you could certainly cab if short on time or stamina. If it had been raining or cold, I would have checked out the museums and space needle. However, with the heat we let Zoe splash in the huge fountain with all the local children.
We picked up awesome vegan food at the food court (Who knew?!? Thanks Uncle Johnny) and had a lovely picnic. Magic show, whale statues to climb and local totem artist carving an original piece, all provided relaxing, free entertainment.- Stop 6 – Kenmore Air Flight to Victoria. If you have time, you should sit by Lake Union bridge and watch the swimmers jump off the bridge and kayaks navigate with incoming planes. Zoe naturally joined the swimming, but we had time to dry off at the airport and relax on the deck waiting for our plane.
Needless to say, the views are amazing from the puddle hopper including Seattle and all the house boats. Zoe followed along on the map as we flew over the San Juan islands. Some claim to spot whales, not me, but super cool experience.
3 Nights in Victoria, BC
- Sat Night – Our hotel picked us up at the port and got us settled into our room. We were exhausted at this point but had the energy for an evening stroll across the bridge to downtown Victoria. We ate at a lovely restaurant with views of Victoria Hotel and caught a cab back to the hotel where we collapsed.
- Sunday – Bike Victoria- We woke up and took a dip in the pool. You can rent bicycles including tandems and spend the day cycling along the harbour. There are totems and rocks to climb along the way. Stop at the Parliament to explore and continue around the harbour. Stop for a late breakfast and then take your time exploring the gardens of the old Victoria Hotel. There are plenty of shops and restaurants to fill the day.
- Monday – Nature & Adventure – We woke up and had a big breakfast sitting outside at the hotel and watching the morning ferry ballet. The hotel arranged for the car rental and we walked to Victoria through the farmer’s market and picked up our car rental. We drove outside Victoria toward Sooke where we had signed up for zip-lining. If your child is small they will be tethered to the instructor. My daughter had a blast but doesn’t mind heights. The tour guides were fantastic ‘kids’ that share their knowledge about the trees and history of the old logging property. After wizzing through the canopy of trees, we stopped at a store for granola bars, a jar of peanut butter and some apples. We picnicked and hiked through Sooke Potholes Provincial Park and would have taken a dip but it was a chilly day. We made it back in time for the hotel’s story time with milk and cookies and were ready for bed. We ordered room service, but I fell asleep before dinner.
- Tuesday – We packed up the car and headed North toward The Butchart Gardens. You can easily spend the day (and evening if you prefer to enjoy music and dinner in the park) wandering the gardens. Grab lunch there and enjoy the philanthropic history of the Butchart family, their quarry business and the wife’s vision. We drove North and caught our first ferry to Pender Island. Without added cost, you can drop of the car or keep it for the island tour. Sitting on top the ferry, you feel you are on an amazing journey. Breathtaking views as you pass through the
fjords. I was looking for spouts from the pod of whales that I just knew were swimming underneath. You have to watch the schedules, but the ferries are the perfect way to navigate the islands with a chance to relax and sight see.
2 Days on Pender Island
- Tuesday Night – Poets Cove Hotel picked us up and we settled into our room and enjoyed dinner at the hotel overlooking the water. After walking around the boats and starting some laundry, we took an evening swim in the heated pool.
- Wednesday – We ate a large breakfast at the hotel buffet, packed our day pack and headed for our hike. This was one of our best days, climbing the cliffs with views of Mt. Hood. We picked apples from the shoreline trees to eat with our peanut butter. Around the bend were tidal pools filled with anenome and brightly colored star fish. We built with drift wood structures adding to what others before us had started. Nature’s balance beams to walk and jump broke up the six hour hike that our daughter would have otherwise never lasted. The stones you stack and rocks you climb, our day was perfect. And as we headed back, my eye was on the horizon…yes, we all know what I watch for.
- Thursday – The hotel rents canoes to enjoy a ride along the shore-line for another perspective of the area. The bird watching is great. Zoe and I completed the hotel’s scavenger hunt while I sipped my first London Fog. The playground was perfect to chat with another family and meet a gentle wolf-dog hybrid, while daddy got our clean laundry packed and ready for our next island.
3 Nights on Salt Spring Island
Thursday Night– Hastings House – What a beautiful location and experience staying in the Hastings House. We walked downtown for dinner and then Zoe played on the playground. We wondered over to the tree house for evening music and dessert. As she fell asleep in my arms, we felt transported to a simple time. Settling into bed with chocolates on our pillow, I dreamed our morning fresh muffins.
Friday– Art & Farm Tour – Enjoy the Hasting’s property after breakfast where you can feed your crusts to their hens in the garden. Take the day to drive around the island. If you decided to tour the islands without a car, this island is best to rent one for the day and convertibles are fun! There are lavender sachets stands and art shops to explore. Don’t miss the goat farm where the cheese is fresh, free to taste with a variety of specialty jams and the goat’s personalities are hilarious. Buy some cheese and fresh jam for your hike tomorrow but not so much that you have to throw it tragically away in customs (boo hoo hoo). Even if you’ve chosen not to stay on the property, make reservations in advance for an exceptional dinner at the Hastings House. Wonderful to relax overlooking the harbor for the sunset.
Saturday – Farmer’s Market / Hike – A morning at the Farmer’s Market is a wonderful way to check out the local arts and foods. You can pick up snacks for the day and a few holiday gifts for the family. We were amazed at the cleanliness of the parks. This was in such contrast to Seattle and where at home everyone seems to carve into the bench that they had come. Musicians and yoga was everywhere and no one seemed to care what others thought yet seem to care enough to live by the cardinal rule. There’s a little market by the ferry terminal to Victoria worth exploring if you have the time.
Sunday Morning– Ferry back to Seattle. If you have time before your return flight, you can certainly fill in some activities you may have missed upon arrival. I would consider the Fish Market to stock up on fun holiday gifts before you leave. Charlie wanted to tour REI. Their store is massive and was a great play area upstairs for kids and make a reservation for the walk wall in the atrium. We caught a taxi back to the airport to make the most of our last day.